Tranny Transplant #2
Tranny swap continued...Things always sound easy in those directions you read. But what you find out is that it is the small, usually explained, parts that get you every time. This picture from the manual (right) for example, makes you think you would just remove a
little circlip (or C-clip) and unscrew the input shaft. Well, first of all, go get the “right tool” again to remove the clip. (Something like the one seen here at the left.) Set the tool to “open” the two points at the end (spread apart). Squeeze your hands into the transmission. Place the points on the tool into the two holes on the clip. Squeeze and ease the clip up on to the shaft. (This was the easy part.)
little circlip (or C-clip) and unscrew the input shaft. Well, first of all, go get the “right tool” again to remove the clip. (Something like the one seen here at the left.) Set the tool to “open” the two points at the end (spread apart). Squeeze your hands into the transmission. Place the points on the tool into the two holes on the clip. Squeeze and ease the clip up on to the shaft. (This was the easy part.)N
ext, pull the gear on the input shaft forward. You may find this increasingly difficult since your hands are now completely greasy with gear oil and there isn’t much room to begin with. Then unscrew the input shaft. What? The shaft doesn’t want to move. You can’t get that gear forward. Well, that’s what the manual says do. Now start with those explicatives I mentioned earlier. Sit dow
n. Calm down. Have a bit of your favorite beverage. Then go look in your tool box or around your garage and find something you think you can use to get behind that $@*&^!& gear. Now pry behind the gear and pull it forward (probably with a little force). What I found was a small nail puller. (see right) You may have a long screw driver with a 90 degree on the end (wish I had). But this tool worked fine. Now that you have the gear pulled forward, pull it forward again (it can be stubborn) and you should be good to unscrew the input shaft.
ext, pull the gear on the input shaft forward. You may find this increasingly difficult since your hands are now completely greasy with gear oil and there isn’t much room to begin with. Then unscrew the input shaft. What? The shaft doesn’t want to move. You can’t get that gear forward. Well, that’s what the manual says do. Now start with those explicatives I mentioned earlier. Sit down. Calm down. Have a bit of your favorite beverage. Then go look in your tool box or around your garage and find something you think you can use to get behind that $@*&^!& gear. Now pry behind the gear and pull it forward (probably with a little force). What I found was a small nail puller. (see right) You may have a long screw driver with a 90 degree on the end (wish I had). But this tool worked fine. Now that you have the gear pulled forward, pull it forward again (it can be stubborn) and you should be good to unscrew the input shaft.
Once you have unscrewed the input shaft, you should see the threads exposed and ready for the replacement from your other tranny (see left). When you put the two input shafts next to one another, you will notice the difference in length (see right). As mentioned earlier, the later model (6-rib) will be longer than the earlier model (3-rib). If you don’t swap out the shafts then the shaft will bottom out where the flywheel mates up and you wouldn’t be able to get the transmission to connect properly to the engine. Next, go to the auto parts store and replace that circlip (C-Clip).
Why? Because, I guarantee it, you will have stretched the old C-clip and if you don’t replace it now, the clip will be loose and in a month or two you will be taking your engine and transmission back out so that you can make repairs to the tranny you just put in. Place the new clip up on the shaft. Slide the gear back up on the input shaft. Screw the swapped out input shaft and then back off a half turn. Push the gear back down into place and then put the circlip in its groove. Easy wasn’t it?
Why? Because, I guarantee it, you will have stretched the old C-clip and if you don’t replace it now, the clip will be loose and in a month or two you will be taking your engine and transmission back out so that you can make repairs to the tranny you just put in. Place the new clip up on the shaft. Slide the gear back up on the input shaft. Screw the swapped out input shaft and then back off a half turn. Push the gear back down into place and then put the circlip in its groove. Easy wasn’t it?Next s
tep, is to put a new gasket between the bell housing and the rest of the transmission (you will probably have to buy a new set for the entire transmission) and replace the bell housing. Then fill it up with your gear oil (about 4 1/2 quarts). After you
have it all back together, be sure to swap out the front mounts (see left... The old “3 rib” 1971 tranny style is like the one on the left. The new “6 rib” later model style has a “sadle” and is just shapped like the “U” one on the right side of the picture. You will also need to swap out the threaded studs on the transmission housings to make everything work.) One you have done all this, you will be ready to complete the swap.
tep, is to put a new gasket between the bell housing and the rest of the transmission (you will probably have to buy a new set for the entire transmission) and replace the bell housing. Then fill it up with your gear oil (about 4 1/2 quarts). After you have it all back together, be sure to swap out the front mounts (see left... The old “3 rib” 1971 tranny style is like the one on the left. The new “6 rib” later model style has a “sadle” and is just shapped like the “U” one on the right side of the picture. You will also need to swap out the threaded studs on the transmission housings to make everything work.) One you have done all this, you will be ready to complete the swap.Links of Interest
